7/27/16

One of the most amazing sights I've ever beheld!

A few weeks ago I talked about the "real" Africa.  Although I've really only spent a little time in many of the countries I've been to so far here on the continent, here's my two cents on each and how "real Africa" they are:

Egypt: I think Egypt is one of those countries that "transcends" place - obviously partly due to their long history, uniqueness throughout much of it, amazing culture, etc. If Africa is the birthplace of humanity, Egypt is definitely the fulcrum.  
Mauritius: I think islands, too, should get a pass in terms of "continent affiliation."  :)  And while it definitely had some bits of "African feel," it also seems much more Indian on the whole and has other common "islandy" characteristics.  
Lesotho: Lesotho definitely has the crazy drivers, colonial past, Africa time, etc., but it is also unique in being "the roof of Africa" and has a climate like no other country on the continent in regards to having a "real" winter throughout most of the country with really cold temps, significant snow throughout two-thirds of the country, etc.  
South Africa: On the one hand, I want to say RSA probably personifies the "real" Africa today as Africa SHOULD be viewed: incredibly diverse, surprising, has the Big Five, horrible drivers, colonial history with appalling oppression, etc., but many folks still don't consider it "real" Africa because in so many ways it is very modern and Cape Town alone just screams "not Africa."  :)
Namibia: Namibia was interesting to me because it was a German colony.  It has weird demographics in terms of size/population, a very strange geographical shape, a vast/fascinating desert, and an interesting history.  It's "real" Africa in the sense, like RSA, that you could see it totally being African but also being surprised.
Botswana: This one ranks up there to me for "real" Africa.  They've made a lot of progress since independence, they have the Big Five, and it still has the mix of seeming dangerous (because of animals AND people), but still safe/interesting enough to travel to for people leery of the continent.
Zimbabwe: I can see why this place gets so many mentions for "real" Africa.  They've got the big five, there's still visible leftover colonial stuff, they have some modernity and diversity, etc.  The people were friendly here for sure.
Zambia: To be fair, I was really only right on the border of Zimbabwe here so can't really say.
Ethiopia:  This is another interesting place to try and peg.  Again, alas, I didn't get to spend much time here before my medical emergency, but Addis Ababa is called "the capital of Africa," they do have that distinction of resisting colonial oppression, etc.

Since I've been on the continent, these have been the big "Africa moments"/memories that stand out for me:
  • 129 trucks!  When I was visiting Vic Falls, and at the "four countries" border area (Zimbabwe, Zambia, Namibia, and Botswana), I transferred from my Zimbabwe side driver to the Botswana side driver.  After a fun/scary moment right after taking off when an elephant trumpeted at us, flared his ears, and charged the vehicle, I noticed we were driving past an inordinate number of semis/trucks parked along the road.  The driver explained that one of the ferries was down that crosses between Zimbabwe and Zambia and that many trucks would have to wait a long time  I asked why there wasn't a bridge and he said that they were only just now building one as it has taken them this long for the countries involved to get over their colonial pasts and rivalries to build one!  A lot of the semis were double-trailers, so just try to imagine how long 129 of them stretched (I went back and forth across/around this area multiple times in a few days so had ample time to count them!)
  • I've had two moments in Africa where my jaw was literally hanging open I was so amazed at what I was seeing.  Once in the helicopter flying over Vic Falls in Zimbabwe/Zambia, and once when a hippo waddled across the road right in front of our open air jeep on safari in Botswana.  Both times I cursed myself for being so busy gawping I didn't get the good picture.  But then that's what a blog/journal is for - to help you remember moments like these!  :)
  • While staying at my tent/safari camp in Botswana, I was 2+ full days with no internet/e-mail access.  Have had many times when I've gone a full day, but this had to be the first with just over 2 full days in a long, long time.  And guess what?  The world didn't end!  
  • Don't know the exact number, but I've added at least a half dozen or so animals to my "animals I have eaten" list--plus worms! Off the top of my head, I can remember boar, antelope, zebra, water buffalo, and kudu--but none of them have made me go, "Oooh, yum!  I wish I could get this back in the states!"  :)
  • Although it wasn't jaw-dropping, I had two other moments with hippos that were certainly memorable.  One was seeing the mating pair in Zambia and the other was the one that came roaring out of the water right by our boat in Zimbabwe - even the tour guide was a little thrown by the latter and reminded us that hippos are not  cute, docile creatures, but territorial killers that are responsible for more human fatalities than any other large animal (they kill nearly 3,000 people annually in Africa). Other fun facts about hippos: they can run over 20 mph - or faster than many humans - but they can't jump; they kill crocodiles; their closest living relative is the whale - and they eat like one, consuming over 100 lbs. of vegetation per day.
  • My last, and most recent, most vivid, most unpleasant "Africa experience" is from my trip to Ethiopia.  In Addis Ababa, I was a semi-victim of a popular scam wherein someone will spit on you as you walk by "in accident."  They are immediately apologetic, quickly whip out convenient tissue and a water bottle to help clean you off, apologizing profusely ("Sorry, baba!  Sorry!") and then while you're distracted by the gross out, pick your pocket or purse.  I was roaming around when this happened to me - 4 dudes sitting in a car at the curb, and just as I was walking by, I saw the guy in front lean out and spew a mouthful of mushy meal or something ALL over me - all down my arm, all over my shirt, my shorts, etc.  I was SO grossed out I was in shock as he pawed at me with tissue, giving me the "Sorry, baba!  Sorry, baba!" routine, while his friend offered a bottle of water from the backseat. But I say "semi-victim" coz, as an experienced traveler, I know to not carry a wallet, not keep money in my back pocket, etc.  So I just got the gross out aspect.  And it was. Very, VERY gross.  I gotta say, though, I can see it being effective.  Sigh.
Before I leave the continent, I still plan/hope to see Madagascar, Tanzania (Kilimanjaro and Zanzibar!), and Senegal - plus hope to get down to Cape Town one more time before i leave!

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