10/23/13

Guangzhou Diary VIII

In China, whenever you need tissues, just go buy some Sprite.  In one of their strange marketing bundles, they will often pair up a packet of tissues with a 1.5 or 2 liter bottle of Sprite. Or Pepsi, Miranda, etc.  They’ll also often throw in a box of tissues with a 10 or 12 pack of Moon Pies (or the Chinese version of Moon Pies, that is).  Thus, I’ve never had to buy tissues on their own.  The bundles with Sprite, Miranda, Pepsi, etc. are actually fairly diverse.  Besides tissues, they’ll often throw in a pack of 5-6 paper cups; or a plastic or glass larger drinking cup; or a varied-size bottle of some kind of juice.

Speaking of tissues, for some reason most folks – and most all restaurants – will use them in place of napkins.  Fast food places – both the Western and local ones – will generally still use napkins, but in any sit down restaurant, and even among the locals at work, they will often use tissue and/or toilet paper.  Frankly, I don’t understand it at all; you need to use significantly more tissue when using it as a napkin as it is much less durable.  It just seems wasteful.  Not to mention that any decent, even borderline lower end, restaurant will give each patron a little folded over, small wallet-looking plastic thing with anywhere from 4-8 tissues in it to use with your meal. 

I continue to struggle with “culture value judgments” – that is, trying to rationalize in my mind that some of the judgments I make are “objectively correct,” when, in fact, they may simply be different cultural touchstones.  However, I’m still arrogant enough (hello, American cultural touchstone!), to believe some of the things I’m bothered by here are, indeed, objectively, “bad.”  Some are harder to rationalize.  I leave my readers to be the judge.  Here are the three biggies:

1)      The astonishing selfishness and “asshole” type behavior.  I feel pretty safe in judging this as objectively “bad” – even though it may, in fact, be culturally based.  The way they push and fight (and I mean FIGHT) to get on the subway/elevator/taxi first, the way they cut in line despite the LOCALLY-based public postings to not do so/to be “civil,” etc.  A good example of asshole behavior is an intersection near my apartment.  I live on a fairly large/busy avenue.  At the intersections, there are four lanes; some are specifically designated “straight” lanes – usually two in the middle – with one designated right turn lane and one designated left turn lane.  I’ve lost count of the number of times some asshole, who is going straight, decides he shouldn’t have to wait in one of the middle lanes with a longer line, and will get in the right turn lane to get to the front and just sit there, despite the right on green arrow (while the other two straight lanes are stopped).  He/she will sit there through all the honking horns behind, waiting for the straight arrow, so (s)he can then shoot out in the intersection ahead of the cars to his/her left.
2)      The public hawking, urination, and yes, albeit (thankfully) only occasionally, shitting.  Again, I feel safe in objectively labeling this as “bad” – I don’t even feel I need to justify this.  Yes, again, you can look at this as a cultural thing, but in my mind, there’s no excuse to justify this type of behavior in the year 2013.  You’d have to be THE most shut away ignoramus to not know by now that not only is this despicably socially unacceptable, but also violently unsanitary.  Sure, go ahead and blame the fucking birds and pigs for all the diseases that originate in China, but let’s not kid ourselves: your disgusting habits of relieving yourself in public is a key contributor to the lower health standards here.  What makes this particular thing even more appalling is their smug insistence regarding what they “KNOW” to be “right” in terms of healthy activities and things to avoid.  Seriously, don’t make me laugh.
3)      I saved this one for last because I admit that, as much as it bothers me, it is the one most open to “subjectivity.”  And this is their disgusting habit of chomping and slobbering their food, like a cow chewing cud, as well as their habit of eating small (or even fairly large) chunks of meat with bones in them, grinding away on said meat, and then oh-so-indelicately spitting out the bone next to their plate – sometimes on a napkin, sometimes not – or sometimes even ON their plate.  Yes, I’ve heard their rationalization that eating this way makes food “more flavorful” (sorry, I’ve tried it for that reason, and it’s bullshit – in fact, I’ve found it to be the opposite: how can inhaling polluted air along with your food make it taste better as opposed to “trapping” the flavors in your mouth with your taste buds?), and/or that loudly “enjoying” your food is supposed to be a way to show your “appreciation” to the cook.  Really?  Would that be the cook in the kitchen who can’t hear you?  The “cook” at the fast food place 3, 4, 12 blocks away who made your food?  And here’s a news flash for you: there is a much more civilized way to you’re your appreciation for your food: SAY SOMETHING about it.  After you’ve chewed and swallowed your food, that is!  Again, I admit this one is borderline and could be considered a cultural thing I’m too “judgmental” about, but honestly, in this day and age, how can you justify this type of uncouth behavior?  I welcome arguments on this one!  J

In other news, I finally went and had a night of “significant” clubbing with some folks from work.  Because of holidays and a schedule for us that included some “in-service days,” 4 of us had a Saturday off and I decided to join them for a Friday night of bar-hopping.  2 Bacardi Breezers, 4 Vodka/Red Bulls, 3 Green Fairy shooters, one Mojito, and one Mango Daquiri later, it was 6am and I felt I’d finally gotten a taste of the Guangzhou nightlife.  It was fun.  Partly due to the combination of drinks, no doubt, and partly due to the company, but it was a nice escape. 

We started at a semi-higher-end bar in the W hotel not too far from my apartment.  Good size, nice mix of music, some pretty people to look at, etc.  The latter, admittedly, due in part to the fact  that there were a fair amount of ex-pats (“sorry,” I personally still don’t find most Asian men attractive – although there are, of course, exceptions, and even a few notable ones).  It seems that, on the whole, the Chinese are not big “clubbers.”  The ones we did see were, disproportionately, overly drunk and/or passed out and/or belligerent and/or sloppy and/or comically dressed.

Once the hotel bar closed, we moved on to the “Party Pier” – a collection of bars/clubs/
restaurants just on the other side of the river from me, and where we pinballed between 2-3 other bars/clubs until the aforementioned 6am-run-home-before-the-sun-comes-up hour.  Sufficiently drunk by this point, we met/chatted with a fair number of interesting characters – including an entertaining Algerian boy who asked about my “Jew girlfriend” (that would be my very non-Jewish, non-girlfriend Bex), and “made” me smoke a Chinese cigarette (yes, I was THAT drunk), and who demanded that Nicky show him the ways of a “mature” woman so he could learn a few things (Nicky, of course, was all too happy to oblige – although she made him stew for a couple of nights to get him revved up). 

It was interesting to see the mix of people; Guangzhou is definitely an “international” city, and I recommend it to anyone wanting to get a glimpse of “modern China” – esp. if you’re planning a trip to Hong Kong, which is just a two hour train ride away.


Coming next week: my “Jew girlfriend” is actually more frustrated by all the locals who think she’s Russian, my experiences with the Chinese medical system, and more!

10/9/13

The Happiest Place on Earth is in Asia?

So I took my first “mini-vacay” and spent a few days in Hong Kong and Macau.  As it turned out, I had basically one full day in Hong Kong, one at Hong Kong Disneyland, and one full day in Macau.  Some observations:

Travelling from Guangzhou, China to Hong Kong, China – although a scant 2-hour train ride - is still like travelling to another country: you must go through passport control upon leaving and arriving.  Ditto for traveling to Macau, China from Hong Kong, China, and from Macau, China to Guangzhou, China.  Yes, I keep emphasizing that all these cities are in China to highlight just how stupid it is, and how paranoid and restrictive the Chinese government remains. 

Worse yet, you cannot use Chinese Yuan in Hong Kong, you must use the Hong Kong Dollar – which, incredibly (in my mind, at least) is worth less against the U.S. Dollar than the Yuan.  In Macau, they still use pesos, although you CAN use the Hong Kong Dollar (which trades 1:1 with the Peso), but you still can NOT use the Chinese currency.  In China.  For real.

My friend Mindy came down from Beijing (she’s a Disney English teacher up there) to travel with me, and we had immediate “sticker shock” upon arrival in HK.  As we worked our way through the train station to the Metro, we came across a Mrs. Fields and both immediately screamed; I had just recently been bemoaning the lack of soft cookies here.  I can get Oreos and other hard cookies, but no soft.  Then, we screamed again when we saw the prices: $13 - $15 for one cookie.  Keep in mind, when you do the math/conversion, that works out to around $2 U.S., which is still very high for China, but poor Mindy just could NOT wrap her mind around the fact they used the dollar symbol/word.  As it turned out, we had a lot of “fun” throughout the rest of the rest of the trip shrieking about, for example, spending FOUR HUNDRED DOLLARS on lunch, FIFTY DOLLARS for a cocktail, etc.  - and of course we did end up snatching up a cookie.  J

Another thing we were pleasantly surprised to discover was that Hong Kong did not have that “China smell.”  Kudos to Western infrastructure and sewer systems.  It was the same in Macau, thank Buddha.

Another weird thing: the children in HK and Macau (at least the ones we saw) aren’t NEARLY as cute as “our” kids in China.  There’s definitely more mixed races, naturally, which in my previous experience usually leads to MORE cuteness/beauty, but I think I can honestly say that we never saw more than 1-2 kids that were even as cute as any of the “least cute” kids either Mindy or myself have at Disney English.  Weird. 

What was also strange was that we actually had difficulties finding food in Hong Kong!  Granted, it was mostly the morning we headed to Victoria Peak, but we thought surely, SURELY, on the walk from our Hostel, which was quite conveniently located in Kowloon, to the Victoria Peak Tram, we would come across a place to get a bite to eat for breakfast.  No such luck.  Not only are the HK metro stops not tricked out with massive malls and multiple eating options like in Guangzhou, but even the not-quite-ten-minute walk from the Central Metro stop to the Victoria Peak Tram yielded nothing, and I mean NOTHING, in terms of street food, local holes in the wall, or even higher end stuff.  In Guangzhou, you can’t swing a cat without hitting a McDonald’s or street vendor, or mom and pop place, or quick Chinese food place.  This aspect had to be the most “surprising” of our trip to HK. 

On the flip side, when we did eat, I did a pretty good job of having a fair amount of seafood while there (something I promised myself I would do more of while in China).  I had seafood fried rice, calamari, fish & chips, etc.  Who’s a good boy?

Staying on the food theme, Disneyland discovered upon building the Hong Kong park, that while the Chinese REALLY like to eat, they also like to spend a REALLY. LONG. TIME. eating.  No inhaling a whole chicken and a couple pounds of potatoes before heading off to grope Mickey; no, they like to LINGER over their meals.  Accordingly, Disney had not planned for nearly enough dining seating in the park when it was first built.  Luckily, this mistake was corrected by the time we arrived (just after the 8th anniversary on September 12th).  As well, the food offerings are much more “eclectic” than in other Disney parks.

As most Disney freaks know, HK Disneyland is, fairly significantly, the smallest of the Disney parks worldwide – although, ironically, its Adventureland area is the biggest of all the parks.  The park is slowly expanding, however, and we got there just in time for the recently-opened Mystic Point area – which includes my new favorite attraction, Mystic Manor!  In a sense, it’s basically a sort of tricked out, higher-tech Haunted Mansion, but I still found it to be hella cool, and it’s the only thing Mindy & I did twice.  Enticement for friends who have threatened to come visit: Mystic Point is ONLY in the Hong Kong Disneyland park.  So there!  J

As is also well known amongst Disney aficionados, Sleeping Beauty’s castle here is shockingly small.  It is a pretty much virtual replica of the castle in Anaheim, and while it probably isn’t THAT much smaller, it sure as hell looks it when you see it.  Of course, the Cinderella castle in the Magic Kingdom at Disney World is bigger, as is the one in Disneyland Paris.

At the end of the day, as “small” as Disneyland HK is, we still weren’t able to do everything we wanted (or at least *I* wanted) in the day we were there, so now I have an excuse to go back – especially since we were there the day BEFORE they launched their Halloween Scream stuff.  Thank god I’m so close and can get in for free!  J

As for Macau, I would like to spend one more day there, as well – although, truth be told, unless you’re a gambler, it wouldn’t be difficult to really “do” Macau in a full day and evening with a little effort.  I’m more interested in the historical aspects, and there is definitely an interesting dichotomy there between the “Vegas style” glitz and the historic stuff.  But I also still have over $200 in Macau pesos I don’t want to exchange, so I figure one more day with a nice, comprehensive city tour will “finish it off” for me.

As it was, I did take a couple of nice walks while there – one to the Guia Fortress to see the lighthouse and chapel, and one to the town centre and along the pedestrian malls, where I saw some cool architecture.  I also did a mini-casino crawl, really just to look at the lobbies, the lights, and compare to Vegas.  The vibe isn’t as “intense” as Vegas in the Casinos, but the glitz is just as good – if not better.


Will hopefully plan a return trip before the month is out – at least to hit HK Disneyland again during their Halloween celebration.