12/16/14

Postcard from Lesotho

So I was happy to find a humidifier here in Maseru as it has been SO dry/drying out my skin (pity pity me!).  When I took it out of the box, though, I discovered it had a “European plug” and so of course needs an adapter for my African outlet.  Luckily I had an extra, but it made me think – and not for the first time – wouldn’t you think electrical outlets would be something the world could sit down and agree on?  I mean, seriously, it just seems DUMB that every region/country has to have their own particular style/type of outlet.  C’mon people, it’s 2014!

So about a month after I started, we also got a new Director of Programming & Training (DPT).  Debra is fresh from DC and is also an RPCV (“Returned Peace Corps Volunteer” for those of you keeping track of all the Peace corps acronyms).  Now, granted, she arrived in country in the midst of Lesotho’s “political crisis” AND she is a woman living alone in a supposedly dangerous country, but it has been a bit….um, interesting to see just how “cautious” she was her first couple of weeks here.  I’m trying to be understanding, but the other day when she made it clear she STILL wasn’t comfortable walking to the mall by herself in the middle of the day – the mall that is literally around the corner/down the very busy street from our office – well, let’s just say it was hard for me to not be like, “Girl, please – you lived in DC!  You’d be more likely to get mugged there.  Will be interested to see how long it DOES take her to “let go” a little bit.

One of the downsides to living here: if I have a craving for, say, ice cream, at night, I can’t go get any.  One thing I will say America (and most Western, hell even Asian big cities) has that’s nice is that whole “convenience” thing.  Of course, I know that also leads to obesity, heart disease, and a demanding impatience, but still….ice cream!

We got a new group of trainees!  The latest Education group arrived awhile back – 33 of them – and it was actually very cool/exciting to go meet them at the airport, welcome them, etc.  See the mix of exhaustion, terror, and excitement on their faces.  Sigh.  It totally took me back.

Now, one of the GOOD things about living here is I can afford a maid.  And even have her come once a week (as opposed to about once a month in China – although, to be honest, I really could have afforded to have her come more often in China, but I was kind of cheap/saving my money).  The downside is, while this maid is very good at cleaning (I share her with the Country Director and the above mentioned DPT), she also hides all my shit.  I LIKE having my honey out on the table, honey, and NOT in the refrigerator.  I don’t WANT my popcorn and nuts in the cabinet – I want them on that one particular counter where I’ll see it and remember it.  She even decided my coat rack would be better off in my bedroom, rather than the entryway (to be fair, I was actually kind of happy about this, since, due to the layout of my house, I was often startling myself by coming across the coat rack and thinking it was an intruder).  Some stuff took me forever to find.  Apparently she does this with the CD and DPT, too.  So now I just embrace it and look forward to the “treasure hunt” after her weekly cleaning.  Well, look forward to it, until I can’t find something immediately that I want, then I rant and rave and stomp around the house, cursing her, until I figure out where my adapter/cell phone/salt/eye drop medicine is.  J  When I do that, I yell like this old woman from this book I recently read.  She sat at her window screeching at passers by in staccato sentences: “Hair too short!”  “Stupid pants!”  “Walk too slow!”  I say stuff like “Honey on table!”  “Sweet snacks on top shelf!”  Yes, apparently, I am turning into a crazy old lady.

Regular readers of my blog will be un-surprised to hear that I am “unimpressed” with the drivers here.  Clearly, no one in the world can drive as well as me.  But seriously, it’s a good thing there aren’t as many people here as in China, as the driving here is insanely reckless.  They drive at ridiculous speeds through residential areas and in general – except for the one-third of drivers who barely crawl along.  They pass with abandon – two lane/two way city streets, treacherously narrow mountain roads, you name it.  Red lights are merely a suggestion.  Seriously.  While many folks WILL stop for a red light, many others will simply stop, look around, and if it’s clear, sail right through.  Still others will simply blow right through it.  Needless to say, I’ve seen numerous accidents since I’ve been here, and already had two reported from staff while working (not their fault) since I’ve been here.  Four years ago, one of our drivers, in a run to the airport to pick up a staff person, tried to pass two cars on the way, but the one in front of the first one—a taxi—decided to just suddenly make a u-turn on the two-lane/two-way road and so the PC driver plowed right into said taxi, killing the driver.  Peace Corps had to give the taxi driver’s family a cow (seriously), and the driver is still in the process of being sued – but the courts here operate even more slowly than in America, so who knows if anything will ever come of it.

I found out the other day that the security guards stationed at my house are required to make a circuit of the perimeter of my yard every 15 minutes.  Apparently, there are little scan checkpoints scattered around the perimeter, which is how the security company knows the guys do it.  If they do it more often than every 15 minutes they get a bonus.  Between that, the wall, the razor wire on top of said wall, and the bars on all my windows and doors, you’d think I wouldn’t jump at night when the old house I’m in makes a sound, but I do.  Hmmm, maybe it’s because of the hyped up security?


In any case, I’m moving to a different house when I get back from DC.  Very excited to find a newer/nicer place just a few blocks from where I am now with a great view.  Two story, 3 bedroom, much smaller lot.  Nice master bedroom suite/master bathroom, multiple balconies and porches, very clean/white/modern looking.  Pics to come!

12/7/14

A Tale of Two Thanksgivings

So even though I’m 8,000 miles away from America, I got to celebrate Thanksgiving twice: once with over 50 Peace Corps Volunteers/soon-to-be-volunteers and once with over 50 Americans/misc. Westerners/ex-pats.

Wendy, the PC Country Director, graciously opened up her home and conveniently HUGE backyard so that the current crop of 33 Education trainees who are nearby wrapping up Pre-Service training could experience Thanksgiving.  As it turns out, our 13 semi-new “Healthy Youth” volunteers were also nearby for the “Phase III” part of their training, so they got to come along (this is the group whose swearing in I got to witness right after my arrival), And, finally, we had a handful of misc. other current PCVs who were in town for medical reasons, or were closing their service, etc.
Our concerns about the weather ended up being well-founded.  While it had been warm and dry the past several days, Thanksgiving day dawned cloudy with intermittent showers.  We pushed forward with two large tents set up in Wendy’s backyard, and the weather held long enough for us all to gather under one of them to do round-robin introductions and each share something we were thankful for.  Most of the volunteers said they were VERY thankful to have this opportunity to celebrate Thanksgiving, and to do so amongst such a large new “family.”  One was thankful he had not yet had diarrhea in country – such is the life of a PCV.  J

The weather held just about until everyone got their food – then it started POURING. Most of the folks stayed fairly dry under the tents, but all the woosy American staff (and local staff) – including me – stayed indoors. It was also fairly cold (at least for Lesotho in November).   I’m sure for some of the volunteers, the deluge just added to the experience. 
After dinner, Wendy’s husband and sons managed to get the Macy’s Parade on their TV and I played a few games I’d brought with some of the volunteers in the dining room—including a nice young married couple from Montana.  It was definitely cool to get to better know this group; I always get a kick out of talking to the volunteers, hearing their stories, etc.  And even though there was no stuffing, we DID have turkey, mashed potatoes, mac & cheese, green bean casserole, etc. AND cranberry sauce I’d brought along from Whole Foods right before I left DC (organic!), which many folks appreciated.

The following Sunday, I went with the 2 other PC U.S. staff (Wendy had left for a S. Africa camping trip with her family right after Thanksgiving) to the Ambassador’s residence for a “Town Hall” and Thanksgiving celebration.  The Ambassador has only been in country for about a month, as his appointment had been delayed—surprise surprise—by the GOP for no discernible reason for over a year.  Ambassador Harrington seems to be a pretty cool guy – esp. since he is a Returned PC Volunteer, himself.  J  Served in Mauritania, I think. 

As mentioned above, there were about 50 or so ex-pats under 3 large tents in the not-as-big-as-Wendy’s-backyard backyard.  Most were from the U.S. Mission related orgs (Embassy, USAID, CDC, DoD, PC, etc.), but then there were also folks from the smattering of various U.S./western NGOs operating in Lesotho – including Baylor University and the Okie I mentioned in an earlier blog post working here on ending human trafficking.  The latter actually gave a “Boomer” shout out while I was introducing myself that I unfortunately did not hear, so he came over and gave me crap later and we commiserated over OU’s “disappointing” season.
Turns out, amongst the various ex-pats there, around a dozen are former PCVs, so that was kind of cool.  And the guy sitting next to me – a “colorful” older guy who owns a fair amount of property around town, including a space we looked at for our possible new office space – stood up and gave a nice speech about how much he respects Peace Corps and appreciates the work we’re doing here, etc., which got a nice round of applause.  PC is definitely well-regarded amongst the Embassy and other ex-pats, which is kinda cool, but can also be kind of “challenging” when they want to run out and visit PCVs, take them to dinner, hear their stories, etc.  It’s almost like they see them as cute pets or zoo oddities to go gawk at and then return to their nice homes and Western “luxuries” while the PCVs toil away in their electricity-less rondevals and pee buckets.  But such is life.

The Ambassador’s Thanksgiving spread was pretty nice and definitely better-stocked on the dessert side.  And while they did not have mashed potatoes, they did have stuffing, so at the end of the day/week, I ended up getting to have both.  J
The following Wednesday, I had my “formal” meet and greet with the Ambassador at the Embassy, since he’d arrived while I was in DC, and it further confirmed my thoughts that he seems to be pretty cool.  Obviously, as an RPCV, he has a fondness for PC, and wants to help if/where he can.  Also turns out he’s a board game freak, too, so we’ve agreed to tag team hosting game nights for those interested.

The meeting ended on a somewhat amusing note as we discussed the just-discovered fact that the Chef he had used for their Thanksgiving – a local guy who actually was formerly the chef for a previous Ambassador AND who had also cooked the PC Thanksgiving meal at Wendy’s place – tried to shake the Ambassador down for a “fee” that we at PC had supposedly charged him to allow him to use the kitchen at our former training site to cook all the turkeys for the Ambassador’s get together.  I confirmed that, of course we had NOT charged him to use the facility (even though I had joked about it to our General Services Manager when he called me to get the okay).  I mean, how dumb can you be to not think we would not talk/compare stories and/or would not be wondering where the receipt was?  Dude just lost some serious business.  Ah well.
So now we turn to Christmas, even with our consistent 80-degrees-that-always-feels-hotter, bright sunny weather.  I am hosting a housewarming/holiday party for all the PC staff to show off my new place and also just coz I love the holidays, and I am also looking forward to unwrapping the “mystery” present I discovered in one of my boxes when I unpacked.  I seriously have no clue/memory of what it is.  I do feel pretty certain it was something generic I had bought, wrapped, and put under the tree in case it turned out I forgot someone for Christmas in 2012 when I was in Oklahoma, or in case someone got me something and I had not gotten them anything, or, actually who knows what it is or was for?  But at least I have something exciting to look forward to opening on Christmas!  J