9/25/13

Guangzhou Diary VII

So I’ve reached a turning point – I actually no longer “mind” being in China and am, in fact, a little “glad” to be here.  Yes, I know it was my choice to come here, and I thought it would be “all that” (mostly just coz I’m a history buff, honestly), but the culture shock was still, well, a shock!  But two things helped bring about the change of heart: 1) a typhoon.  Ha!  But seriously, as I mentioned the other day on FB we had a day off of school due to a typhoon that actually fizzled out by the time it hit the GZ area.  Anyway, combined with a mid-Autumn festival holiday day off, it gave me two days off, and I knew I’d go back for one day and then have my weekend.  The psychological boost of just getting a free day actually made me miss the kids/work.  They’re just so CUTE!  J  Unfortunately, I can’t post pics of the little rugrats on FB, but if anyone is interested in seeing some of them, I’ve got some cute shots from our recent end of term presentations, so hit me up if you’d like to get a look at some of my favorite students.  The second thing that has suddenly helped “endear” China to me is a boyfriend.  Yeah, believe it.  I won’t bore you all with the deets, so again shoot me a note if you really care to know more.  With an upcoming trip to Hong Kong and Macau, I’m finally, really grooving on the experience.  Woot, woot!  J

Chinese oddity: apparently, you can only buy toilet paper in bulk here.  I was lucky in that the previous tenant left some behind, but as I got down to my last roll, I started comparing prices at different shops and kept putting off buying because I couldn’t find anywhere that sells less than 10 rolls in a pack.  Turns out, no one does.  Although I still eat out a lot/buy a lot of takeout, I generally still shop once a week for basic stuff, and I’ve got my little IKEA rolling cart which is handy for a decent amount of stuff for me to wheel home.  But a 10-pack of TP would take up the whole cart.  Finally had to break down and get some last week and then carry it separately (fortunately, the pkg. had a convenient built in handle).  On the one hand, it makes sense to sell it in bulk: it’s something you’ll always need, it saves on packaging (strike that: each roll was individually wrapped within the outer packaging – fail!), etc.  But, on the other hand, since many folks DON’T have cars here, it is definitely a bit “onerous” to lug home a jumbo pack of TP on top of everything else.  I know this is minor in the grand scheme of things, but I still find it a bid odd.

Speaking of odd, the Cheerios here don’t taste like Cheerios.  They’re not necessarily bad, and they’re definitely the General Mills brand, etc., but they are just a little off.  It took me awhile to get up the “courage” to buy milk here in the first place, but I was jonesing for some mashed potatoes, in addition to breakfast cereal, as well as French toast.  And then Nicky pointed out I could buy imported New Zealand milk at one of the western markets here, so voila!  But then the not-quite-Cheerios-tasting Cheerios.  On top of that, breakfast cereal is even more outrageously expensive here than it is in the states and I only got the Cheerios coz it was on sale.  On the plus side, I made some awesome mashed potatoes the other night!  J

I also had some awesome, homemade (of course) Mexican the other night.  Heaven!  It was actually leftover from an introductory meal I made for the new BF, who was trying Mexican for the first time (he didn’t like it – the fool!).  I tried making Spanish rice in my rice cooker but didn’t put enough “non rice” ingredients in it, so had to get a Lawry’s Mexican seasoning packet to add to the leftovers, added some chili powdered up chicken, stuck a crowbar in my wallet for cheddar cheese, made some homemade salsa, and then added some guac-flavored chips (not TOO horribly expensive from another Western mart) and was in absolute heaven.  Mexican food is definitely high on my list of things I miss.  Sigh.

Staying on the food theme, I had my first moon cakes this month for the mid-Autumn festival and they were a mixed bag.  Courtesy of Disney, we all got a certificate to pick up a free “deluxe” box of the “goodies” from the GZ Marriott.  Well, I’m definitely glad I got the box, coz it’s hella cool (recently posted a pic on FB), but as for the mooncakes themselves…  It’s funny coz my friend Bex had almost exactly the same reaction to them as I did: (bite #1) “Hmmm, these actually aren’t that bad…”  (bite #2) “Hmmm, what IS that taste, tho?”  (bite #3) “Oh, sweet jesus, these are nasty.” After which I promptly spit out the third bite and threw it and the rest of Mooncake #1 in the trash—and then took the other five very prettily wrapped ones to work and gave them to folks I like and who actually like the nasty things.  I later heard from some of the locals that these particular mooncakes just weren’t that good – clearly more effort was put into the packaging.  As it turns out, someone brought some in to the Center a few days later and I had a small berry mooncake that was actually pretty tasty.

We had Moon Festival content for our lessons during the holiday time, too, which was a bonus/help for lesson planning and included a special song, “Hey, Moon” that I think is the best song I’ve heard so far in the Disney English content.  Amy & I taught my F2D class the song and then we sang it for their parents in Clubhouse after class and tore it up! SO cute! J 

When I went to get my mooncakes, I also checked out the Grandview Mall – my new favorite place in Guangzhou.  I was a bit thrown when I got off the subway stop, though, coz it said it was the Tee Mall, which I had been to previously and thought, “Hmmm, are they one and the same?”  But then I quickly discovered, no, they are just two huge malls right next to each other.  The number and size of malls in this country continues to blow me away.  Said malls are basically also connected to each other by an underground mall - AND there is a thriving street market in between the two above ground.

Anyway, my initial impression of Grandview was, “Eh, same ole same ole…” but then I noticed a Toys R Us sign, found a mall map and realized I was just in one of the four “small” atrium areas and there was a huge central atrium with more stuff.  So I wandered over to that area and jackpot: multiple, funky dioramas, several large aquariums, water fountains scattered hither and yon, a Dairy Queen where I promptly scarfed up a banana split, an ice skating rink, and a huge arcade and small amusement park.  SCORE!  Plus, the aforementioned Toys R Us where I got some cool little model kits of “buildings from around the world” which are just too cute for words.  BONUS: out front of the mall there was a local Michael Jackson wannabe gliding his way through “Smooth Criminal.”  All in all, definitely one of my better days in China.  J

Speaking of shopping, I’ve now hit several local pedestrian malls and shopping areas (pics are posted – as well as pics for the above-mentioned Grandview).  I was slightly disappointed with a few exceptions:  The Beijing Lu pedestrian area was a bit cooler, with a movie theater and ultra-cool glassed in sections of previous levels of the streets from Chinese dynasties stretching back almost 1,500 years.  The Shangxiajiu pedestrian street was cool for all of the statues and sculptures—as well as the architecture.  Finally, the African Market definitely had the most “local color” and was less touristy/more authentic.


COMING SOON: My first trip to Hong Kong and Macau!

9/12/13

Guangzhou Diary VI

Taxis here, while cheap, are generally an adventure for us on a variety of levels (and by “us,” I mean Westerners – although I’ve talked to some locals who experience some of the same issues).  To start with, a fair number of cabs will flat out not stop for Westerners.  Part of it, no doubt, is fear we won’t be able to tell them where we need to go/they won’t understand us, but the vast majority of the time it’s simple xenophobia.  Or, as previously mentioned, they’re just assholes!  Ha!

When they DO stop, it often is a challenge to make them understand, even in Chinese; but also due to the fact that many cab drivers are, like in some places in the states, recent arrivals and don’t know the city (I don’t know WHY so many migrants think it’s a good idea to get a job driving a cab in a new city that is completely unknown to them).  And don’t bother giving them street number addresses – they flat out don’t know them.  You’ve got to give them intersections and/or major landmarks and/or direct them. 

Finally, there is always the chance of some kind of unpleasant interaction/experience for whatever variety of reasons.  Two semi-recent examples: Bex offered Nicky and I a free cab ride to work one morning if we’d roll with her to stop at the post office on the way so she could get a package.  Well, the cab driver approached from the “wrong” way – that is, in the sense of not being able to make a left turn as he needed to from the way he came and tried to dump us off across the street and well beyond where we needed to go.  Considering Bex wanted us to stay/hold the cab while she went and got her package, this just wouldn’t do.  But Mr. Taxi Guy was MOST unpleasant about having to go well up and then come back on what was a VERY busy/crowded street in a “market area” part of town.  When he finally doubled back, Bex made motions for him to stay while she ran in and then hopped out to much screeching from him.  In the back seat, Nicky gave it right back to him as he cursed and tried to leave and made like he couldn’t wait, blah blah blah.  As if any of them give two squirts about inconveniencing anyone whenever it suits them.  I must admit, it’s quite entertaining to watch Nicky go at it with some of these cab drivers.  Neither one can understand the other, but it’s always entertaining for ME!  Anyway, because this is China, when Bex came back about 5 minutes later, it turned out there was no package because they had mistakenly “re-noticed” her for a previously delivered one!  Gotta love it!

Fun recent example #2.  Me, Bex, Nicky, and Angie all caught a cab right outside our Disney Center one night to head back to my hood for half-price pizza at the pub downstairs.  Well, for some reason waiting until all 4 of us piled in, the cab driver made it QUITE clear he didn’t want to take us. Not only didn't want to, but flat out refused.  No idea why.  He didn’t make a stink until it was either Nicky or Bex got in, so maybe he thinks they’re witches coz of their red hair.  In any case, he was QUITE empathic and asshole-ish about refusing to take us.  As luck would have it, another cab happened along, so Bex hopped out to snag it, with the rest of us staggering out to follow – with some choice words flung back at the dickhead cab driver.  Angie was last.  Well, just as we’re settling in the new cab and telling him where we want to go, the other cabbie comes up, jerks open the front door – surprising the shit out of Bex – and starts GOING OFF on us!  Yelling at the other cab driver, gesturing at us, particularly at Angie in the back, who then informed us she had made a point of taking a picture of him/his license before she got out to report his asshole behavior.  Well, woe to anyone who tries to take a picture in China if someone doesn’t want you to!  The new cab driver actually seemed to be enjoying the ruckus as his industry-mate went off on us, with the three ladies giving it right back to him.  I just sat there soaking in the experience, shaking my head and laughing – until Bex finally closed the door on him and he jerked MY door open and started going off!  Dude was PISSED.  Turns out, it’s most likely coz he wasn’t the guy the cab was licensed to – this is just conjecture, as Angie said the pic on his taxi license did NOT look like him, and was of a much younger man.  So it could have been an old pic, but the way he was responding....  And if I haven’t mentioned it before, the Chinese get really, REALLY angry when they’re called on their shit – Nicky called another cabbie on his attempt to take us “the long way” home one night and he went off on her for several blocks afterwards.  The upshot is, Angie’s phone was messed up and the picture didn’t even “take.”  But the guy got a good scare and we all got a “fun” experience out of it.  BONUS: the new cab driver got us to our destination toot sweet (wasn’t gonna mess with those crazy Disney girls!), for cheaper than usual, so we gave him a tip (they don’t tip here).  So yes, it’s always a possible adventure when we get in a cab.  J

NEXT:  Turns out the income tax system here is painfully simple.  There are just two tax rates: 20% and 25%.  The latter kicks in at a certain salary level, which is supposedly fairly high by China standards, but not really coz I am, unfortunately, at the 25% rate, and I’m on a teacher’s salary.  If you include my housing allowance, I’m making less than $30K annually.  There’s no tax return filing, either – so no refunds or having to pay at the end of the year.  At least this is the case for us “foreign devils.”

Someone asked me what I’m eating here.  Well, most of you will be unsurprised to hear I eat a lot of rice and a lot of noodles.  Oh, and dumplings/pot stickers.  One interesting thing: of course most everyone asked me, when they heard I was moving here, if I like Chinese food.  I do.  A lot.  But most all of those same people then smugly added (no doubt, because they heard someone else say it as I don’t know anyone else who has ever lived in China), “Now, you know the Chinese food you’ll get over there isn’t the same as Chinese food in the states.”  Well, duh!  But in the immortal words of Homer Simpson, waaaiiittt a minute….  Turns out, most of it actually is.  At least the same as the Chinese I got in San Francisco.  Of course SF has a massive Chinese population, but still, even I have been surprised at the similarity.  Sure, there are a lot of things I’ve seen here I never saw in the states, but just like in the states, there is “good” Chinese here and “bad” (read: low quality).  For example, I could live on fried rice.  I fucking LOVE that shit!  But, just as in the states, I find very few places that make it as good as I do (not bragging here, a lot of times your own homemade stuff is better coz you can cook it to your taste).  I get a lot of stir-fried green beans, chow fun noodles whenever I can, chow mein, etc.  I will admit I haven’t seen as much Kung Pao chicken, but I can find orange chicken, sweet and sour stuff, etc.  There’s definitely more variety here, but at the end of the day, it still tastes like…..you guessed it…Chinese food.

Now there are definitely things you DON’T see here.  Fortune cookies, egg rolls, General Tso’s Chicken, etc.  But those are all western concoctions.  They also don’t eat cheese.  I read something that says they’re all lactose intolerant, but this doesn’t explain all the yogurt they consume, and they do drink milk.  One theory is that crowded conditions throughout history made pasture farming not feasible.  But one person I asked claims it’s just psychological.  Really?  Curdled, moldy milk doesn’t sound appealing?  My god, they’re picky!  J 

Fun fact: when I googled, “Do the Chinese eat cheese?”  Auto fill first came up with the option, “Do the Chinese eat cats?"  Followed by “Do the Chinese eat cheese?”  Followed by “Do the Chinese eat dogs?”  So more people are curious about the Chinese eating cheese than dogs.  I’m not sure what this says, but I find it both amusing and disturbing at the same time. 

9/5/13

Best Movie Buy EVER.

If/When I get around to making a “Ten Things I Like About Living In China” blog/list, I can’t imagine anything topping this: the fact that I can get DVDs so cheaply.  My latest and best find was an “Oscars Collection” box set that has 24 DVDs with 127 movies on it.  I spent 200 quai on it, which works out to about 25 CENTS for each movie. 

And wait until you see the list of movies! (below)  I’m a big movie freak so this is like the mother lode for me.  It’s such a good buy, I may have to buy a Chinese DVD player to bring home just so I can keep this collection!  J

So far, I’ve watched two: “Wings” and “You Can’t Take it With You.”  The former is the first –ever Best Picture winner – a silent movie about a couple of WWI fighter pilots in love with the same woman.  It was actually pretty good for an old silent pic.  The other one I’ve watched is “You Can’t Take it With You” with Lionel Barrymore and Jimmy Stewart – which nabbed Frank Capra his third Best Director Oscar in 5 years.  Fun, quirky film.

Anyway, here’s the list.  Prepare to be amazed!  J


A Beautiful Mind
A Man For All Seasons
Alice in Wonderland
All About Eve
All Quiet on the Western  Front
All the King's Men
Amadeus
American Beauty
An American in Paris
Annie Hall
Around the World in 80 Days
Avatar
Beginners
Ben Hur
Benjamin Button
Black Swan
Braveheart
Casablanca
Cavalcade
Chariots of Fire
Chicago
Christina Barcelona
Cimarron
Crash
Crazy Hearts
Dances with Wolves
Doubt
Driving Miss Daisy
Forrest Gump
Frozen River
Gandhi
Gentleman's Agreement
Gigi
Gladiator
Going My Way
Gone With the Wind
Grand Hotel
Hamlet
Happy Go Lucky
How Green Was My Valley
Hugo
In the Heat of the Night
Inception
Inglorious Basterds
Inside Job
It Happened One Night
Kramer vs. Kramer
Kung Fu Panda
Lawrence of Arabia
Logorama
Longlive
Man on Wire
Marty
Midnight Cowboy
Midnight in Paris
Milk
Million Dollar Baby
Mrs. Minniver
Mutiny on the Bounty
My Fair Lady
No Country for Old Men
Oliver!
On the Waterfront
One Flew Over the Cuckoo's Next
Ordinary People
Out of Africa
Patton
Platoon
Precious
Rachel Getting Married
Rain Man
Rango
Rebecca
Rocky
Schindler's List
Shakespeare in Love
Slumdog Millionaire
Star Trek
Terms of Endearment
The Apartment
The Artist
The Best Years of Our Life
The Blind Side
The Bridge on the River Kwai
The Broadway Melody
The Cove
The Dark Knight
The Deer Hunter
The Departed
The Descendants
The Duchess
The English Patient
The Fighter
The French Connection
The Girl with the Dragon      Tattoo
The Godfather
The Godfather, Part II
The Great Ziegfield
The Greatest Show on Earth
The Help
The Hurt Locker
The Iron Lady
The King's Speech
The Last Emperor
The Life of Emile Zola
The Lost Weekend
The Muppets
The Reader
The Return of the King
The Secrets of Others
The Silence of the Lambs
The Social Network
The Sound of Music
The Visitor
The Wolfman
The Wrestler
The Young Victoria
Titanic
Tom Jones
Toy Story 3
Tropic Thunder
Unforgiven
Up
Wall-E
West Side Story
Wings
You Can't Take It With You