It's hard to believe it's been a year since I arrived in Lesotho. Compared to the previous year, this past one has flown. Miscellaneous thoughts on my first year here:
Needless to say, it was a bit "disorienting" to arrive in country only to have an attempted coup barely 2 weeks after I got here, leading to the temporary evacuation of all the volunteers to South Africa. As we approach the one year anniversary, the county has actually gone back in time to the corrupt government that played a role in the "failed" coup and there's dismay all around at the ongoing violence and dysfunction.
In fact, it's hard to feel optimistic about Lesotho ever developing into a functional, even second world country. The HIV epidemic continues unabated, with fully one-fourth of the population infected. After being here a year, talking to locals and volunteers working on the issue, it's clear what the culprit is: religion. They're so wrapped up in their "Christian morality" that forbids talking about "dirty" things like the penis, vagina, or sex, that they can't/won't speak frankly enough to make a difference. PCVs doing HIV prevention education actually have to use the English words for penis and vagina because the kids get SO giggly and freaked out over the Sesotho words that they tune out. I mean, honestly, WTF?
It reminds me of the recent thing in Colorado where they did a large campaign providing free birth control and teen pregnancies dropped 40%. Abortions went down significantly, as well, and yet the right/Republicans/Christians STILL don't like it because it "promotes" sex. Religion: ruining the world for two thousand years now. Congrats!
One thing I noticed awhile back about the volunteers: they all look WAY better when they're getting ready to leave the country than when they first get here. We take pics of all of them a couple days after arrival for their ID cards, and then when it comes time for them to end their service, I'm always amazed how much better they look. Slimmer, healthier looking, a glow. Seriously, it's amazing and virtually 100% consistent across the board.
I've also discovered that even with the challenges living in a third world country, I like my job so much that I'm actually in a pretty good mood virtually all the time. Sure, I have ups and downs, but I also have many more days when I find myself thinking, "Hey, I'm living the life!" and enjoying what I'm doing. Sure, there are random, stupid policies I disagree with (off the top of my head: the "Fly America" act which requires us to always use a U.S.-based carrier to fly to conferences, fly PCVs home, etc. - even if it costs significantly more. And it always does), but still, on the whole, it's WAY cool working to support these volunteers who are doing amazing things, coping with WAY more challenges than I am. They are truly an inspiration - and a nice counterpoint to the continual slack-jawed stupidity and violence I read about in America on an almost daily basis.
I'm also kind of waiting to see if we'll ever have a "slow period" at work. No doubt the main reason the past year has flown is because it's always so busy. Between signing 50 million things a day, dealing with almost a hundred emails daily, planning for an almost endless series of conferences and trainings for staff and/or PCVs, overseeing the operations of the post, supporting volunteers, etc. etc. etc. It's amazing the year hasn't flown even faster!
As for the one thing that sticks out most about Lesotho....believe it or not, it's the drivers. It continues to blow me away just how absurdly reckless they are, the complete disregard they have for driving at a reasonable speed, blowing through red lights, passing when not appropriate, etc. It's hard not to judge them for their outrageous vehicle fatality rate when they continue to drive SO stupidly and recklessly!
Oh, and one year in and I still find the incessant taxi honking stupid beyond belief.
Hmmm, I'm thinking I should end with something positive. Lesotho IS a beautiful country - esp. when the mountains are green. It actually looks like Ireland in the summer. And the locals I work with are cool. There! End with the upbeat and be ready for year two! :)
