Guangzhou Diary IV

So I’ve decided I can sum up China in two words: Tiyu Xilu.  This is a subway stop on “Line 3” of the Guangzhou Metro system.  And “Line 3” is in quotes because it is not really just one line, but three.  Tiyu Xilu is the nexus at which the three different trains running on “Line 3” meet.  The metro stop nearest my place is Zhujiang New Town.  Tiyu Xilu is one stop north and stands between me and work, between me and sanity, and between me having ANY respect whatsoever for the people and country of China.  And why/how does it sum up China?  Witness:

1)      First of all, the sheer mass of people that pass through here.  Not only does their fucked up line 3 branch off into multiple directions, but this station is also a transfer point for Line 1.  Thus, a suffocating mass of people push/shove their way through this stop and in between trains.  There is no “down” time at this stop.  It truly must be experienced to be believed in terms of the number of people that go through here.  It is SO. VERY. traumatizing that my friend Bex who lives in my bldg. and works with me at my center, absolutely refuses to take the metro to work simply because of needing to “transfer” from Line 3 to Line 3 at Tiyu Xilu.

2)      It also is a microcosm of China because of the insane and disgusting selfishness displayed by the people in the station/transferring.  Line too long at a boarding spot?  Just walk right up to the front and block the door for people trying to exit.  Old women and/or pregnant women trying to get on?  So what – just push, run, elbow, knock people down in the vain hope of getting a seat.  Their piggishness, thugishness, and selfishness is truly a savage and disgusting sight to behold – if nothing else, from a purely sociological standpoint.

3)      And why is the station set up the way it is?  Who knows?  You can’t call them on it because they get all huffy and indignant and act like it’s a marvel of engineering, when in fact, even other Chinese who come to visit from other towns marvel at the stupidity of it.  The Guangzhou Metro system, on the whole, was designed by Germans – except for this one section, which was designed by the Chinese.  Why did they not at least, designate the branching lines 3A, 3B, and 3C to make it less confusing?  Why did they not better structure the embarkation/disembarkation platforms to smooth the massive crowd flow?  They won’t answer that because they’re too busy arrogantly huffing about what a marvel it is.  They flat out refuse to own up to their stupidity.

So again, in a nutshell, between the insane number of people involved, their rudeness and selfishness, and then the flat out stupidity combined with myopic arrogance/refusal to own their stupidity, Tiyu Xilu definitely wins the award for “Microcosm of China.”  “Congratulations!”

On the flip side, here’s a definite upside to China:  The other night, at a local street market, I got the first three seasons of “Game of Thrones” on DVD and a DVD of the last Broadway performance of “Rent” for $5 total.  Although I was very angry/disgusted with the ending of the first episode of “Thrones,” I am totally enjoying it.  Esp. for less than $5.   ;)

My weekly “tourist excursion” this past week was to the Temple of the 6 Bayun Trees.  Pics to be posted soon if not already by the time I post this.  Pretty cool and historical.  The Lotus Pagoda is particularly cool from an architectural standpoint – not to mention the fact it houses over 1,000 Buddhas.  The Temple is still in use, as it has been for about 1,500 years now.  To put that in perspective, this one temple has existed longer than the United States….even if the U.S. was SIX TIMES older than it is now.  I was one of the few (if not only now that I think about it) “foreign devils” wandering around on this particular day so I definitely got some looks.  Esp. since the temple is still in use and many locals still come to light joss sticks for their ancestors, to do their “circuit prayers” around the pagoda, etc.  And monks still live there, as well.  One of the cooler smallish temples I’ve seen, and it was interesting to be in a such a serene, calm, quiet place right in the heart of the city - just outside the temple walls, it's back to masses of people, endless shops, honking horns, etc.  Truly an oasis of peace.

Non sequitur interesting tidbit: in the states (both CA and my year+ in OK), I ate significantly more fruits than vegetables.  Here in China, it is reversed.  I suppose that’s a good thing on the whole, but I really miss good juice – esp. cherry.

Keeping on food, I was excited to come across some cheesecake on sale at the local supermarket I frequent the other day, so snatched it up.  I should have known, however, that the Chinese antipathy to cheese would extend to cheesecake: this was no cheesecake in the true sense of the word – more like a cheesecake flavored cake.  Sigh. 

Example of what a small world it is: I was riding the elevator in my building the other day when a youngish woman noted my “Keep Oregon Weird” shirt and we had the following exchange:

Her: I like your shirt! I went to the University of Oregon.  Go Ducks!

Me: I’ve actually only visited a couple of times and got the shirt on a vacation, but love the football team. 

Her: Well, I “only” went to school there; I’m actually from Hawaii. 

Me: Oh my god, I lived in Hawaii for 3 years!

Her: Oh wow, where?

Me: Honolulu.

Her: That’s where I was born & raised!  We lived in Makiki.

Me: Oh my god, that’s where I lived the whole time I was there – on Keeaumoku and then Piikoi.

Her: Oh my god, we lived on Keeaumoku!

Now everybody join in and sing, naturally, “It’s A Small World!”

Actually, because of all the ex-pats in my hood, I get almost as many appreciative comments on my “Keep Oregon Weird” shirt here as I did in the states.

The weirdness never ends in fun-filled China!  :)