Hello, Guangzhou!

So after my first full day in Guangzhou, my initial thoughts were: Pretty green for such a large city. Definitely warm and humid. Seems much more mellow than Shanghai (but then that wouldn’t be difficult). And that I made a good choice. We’ll see if/how those initial thoughts change.


Turns out the Cantonese REALLY hate coins. When the regional director, Paul, was trying to get us checked into our hotel (no mean feat considering the HR girl in Shanghai bungled our reservations), we ran next door to the Family Mart for juice/soda. The clerk tried to give Paul a one quai/RMB/yuan coin as change and he was all, “Bu yao” (“don’t want”) and then explained to me and Kerwin that living in Guangzhou has turned him into a coin hater just because they hate them. I get that they’re heavier, but I would think the gov’t would “force” them on folks more because it’s cheaper for them. They still use the one quai coin, but just not nearly at the level they do in Shangai. But what’s really trippy is they hate coins so much they actually have HALF quai bills! That would be like having a 50 cent bill in the U.S. When I got my first one, I was like, “WTF is this?” You really only see them in the south. In fact, they’re the only bill that does NOT have good old Mao on them. But wait, it gets better! A few days later, I bought something that was 1 quai 90 and I actually got back a fucking 1/10th quai bill! Again, that’d be like having a dime bill in the U.S. Unbelievable! Also doesn’t have Mao on it.

I think some small part of this has to be due to the fact that Guangzhou/Guangdong province has always been a bit “independent” – not so much in the literal sense, of course, but most modernization and “progressive” movements start down here. They also hold on to their Cantonese language, which is as different from Mandarin as English is from French. Subway announcements are made in Mandarin, English, AND Cantonese.

In other news, I’m still trying to decide what I think about the jelly balls in my juice. Huh huh huh. In Shanghai, a couple of us went out one night with Kerwin’s “uncle” who showed us the sites, bought us some local food, etc. Towards the end of the evening, when we were dragging/tired, he treated us to a local juice place for a “refresher.” I got a peach/mango/watermelon/kiwi confection that was really good, tho I did do a slight double-take at the jelly balls that were in there. Uncle explained that’s a common thing in China – and you’ll even see it in KFC. They’re kind of hard to describe, but it’s SORT OF like “bubble tea” for those who have had that. But, IMHO, the texture is kind of strange – esp. in a drink. Anyway, I actually liked it that night, partly for the novelty, and partly coz I was parched. But my second night in Guangzhou, I picked up a juice bag (like Capri Sun) at a local Hong Kong style market. Thought I was just getting peach juice, but when I got into it back at my hotel I discovered there were peach jelly balls in them. At first, I was like, “Oh well,” tho still disappointed. But after a few of them, I was just over it. They’re strange. It’s the texture. Will now be trying to avoid them. Bleh.

I haven’t talked too much about “the smells” here – partly coz I’ve traveled enough to expect strange smells overseas as compared to many in our group. But I do have to admit that they can be very, um, “disheartening” at times. Was taking a stroll along the river the other night and it was very pleasant. The night wasn’t too warm, the skyline was pretty, there were beautifully lit boats cruising along, the nearby bridge was changing colors, the Guangzhou opera house looked REALLY cool, etc. And then I hit a stretch that just smelled like shit. Literally. It passed soon enough, but it still kind of put a damper on the experience, which is a shame. And that will happen throughout the city/China. Part of it is their sub-par sewer system, I imagine; part of it is just how gross the Chinese can be sometimes in disposing of their waste, but it kind of puts a hitch in any dreams they may have of being a truly world-class, consistently enjoyable tourist destination.

Speaking of world class: Sorry, China, but you will NEVER become a “real” “first world” power until your internet service is way more consistent and WAY less shitty!

Here’s a love/hate China story: They have this awesome little subway line that’s called the APM, which stands for “Automated People Mover.” It’s a subway line that is auto-driven, no humans operating it, kind of like the ones you see in some airports. I love it coz not only is it generally WAY less crowded than the subway, I just think it’s kind of cool—plus, it’s terminus at one end is a scant 5-10 minute walk from my center and the other end is at the Canton Tower (about a 15-20 minute walk from my hotel). Unfortunately, I became MUCH less enamored of it once I discovered the stupidity of their fare system. After I rode it to work and back one day, I decided the next morning to buy several tokens at once so I wouldn’t need to buy one every time I got on. Well, when I was going back to the hotel that evening, I tried using one of the four extra tokens I’d bought that morning. Wouldn’t work. Tried another one. And another one. None worked. So I had to truck upstairs to customer service, and after getting the no English guy to understand that YES, I was putting the tokens in, they just weren’t working, he got another guy with some decent English who was finally able to make me understand that the tokens bought at the Canton Tower end can only be used from there. Even though the fare is the same, the tokens look the same, etc. I felt bad for him because he was being very nice, and it wasn’t HIS stupid idea/system, but I was still pretty pissy. So, whatever, I bought a couple of “return” tokens and then kept them separate from my “departure” tokens and went back to the hotel. Next morning: I put in my “departure” token and it doesn’t work. I try using the other to make sure I didn’t mix them up. Didn’t work. Repeat scene at customer service window, this time with two women, first no English, etc. I dunno if they deliberately have women at the Canton Tower stop and men at the other end or what. Ha. ANYWAY, the speak a little English woman politely and smilingly informed me that not only are the tokens only good one way depending on the station you buy them in, they’re only good for the same fucking day you buy them! I said to her, “So you’re telling me the 10 quai worth of tokens I now have are worthless?” (polite smile from her) “Yes!” So I had to be the asshole American and said, “I’m sorry, but that’s just stupid.” And it is. Again, China, can’t be a first world power with such stupid shit.

When I mention this kind of stuff to the other Westerners here, they invariably say, “Welcome to China.” Bed in my hotel hard as a rock? “Welcome to China.” Incomprehensibly stupid fare system? “Welcome to China.” But there’s more: When I ask these Westerners their opinion of the Chinese, or just when discussing them in casual conversation, the almost universal adjective used to describe them is: “They’re assholes.” And supposedly the Taiwanese are even worse. Now, as a history major who studied a fair amount of Chinese history, I tend to be a little more understanding – aware of the fact that they call themselves “The Middle Kingdom,” as in the center of the universe. Indeed, I feel they should be rightfully proud of their long history and accomplishments and traditions. But the Egyptian history is just as long and yet they are not NEARLY so arrogant. Upon further discussion, you’ll hear that these Westerners are appalled at the Chinese arrogance because of their provincialism – which, to me, is much more understandable/legitimate to criticize them for. The vast majority of the Chinese – admittedly through no fault of their own – have very little awareness/understanding of the rest of the world. And yet, still, they are incredibly racist, look down on foreigners, etc. Of course most Americans are the same way, so it’s kind of interesting to hear the Americans here kvetch about the Chinese.

Tonight for dinner I had a bag of guacamole chips I found at a small Western market and a McFlurry from the Mickey D’s around the corner. I feel badly about the amount of McDs I have eaten, but until I am in my own place, am able to shop/cook, etc., I’m too leery of trying places I don’t know. Towards the end of my time in Shanghai, I ate much more local food as we found places with the help of locals we’d befriended. At my center, I go to this little Hong Kong style buffet down the street, so, again, as I make local friends/find stuff, hopefully my diet will diversify. J

Okay, the heat/humidity is insane! I mean, I dealt with this in Oklahoma, of course, but it’s one of the main reasons I left! Wah, my delicate California blood! The poor realtor thought I was going to drop from heat stroke when she was showing me apartments, and kept fanning me! I looked at about 10 apartments in two different areas, and boy did they run the gamut: 3,700 – 5,000 quai a month, small to decent size, interesting décor/furnishings to ugly/bland. Saw one place that was pretty nice inside but quite, um, “sketchy/local” on the outside – let’s just say I can’t imagine my delicate snob Princess of a sister visiting me if I lived in such a place! (love ya, Angel!) J

Anyway, I just today asked the realtor to see if I could get the third one I saw yesterday. I had a good feeling when I walked in, even though it’s not too big. And it’s bright, in a nice/modern area, etc. Deets next week if I snag it!